Day Three: Tuesday, February 17

This morning we walked to one of the places I most wanted to visit, the steps of the University of Havana. So distinctive, so historical, a witness to the role of university students in revolution, the Alma Mater sits at the top, reigning over her world.


And there we found the James Scanlon of Havana: Dr. Delio Carreras Cuevas, Profesor Emérito, Historiador official de la Universidad de la Habana. What a wonderful story he told us of this school, started by the Dominicans in 1728 in the Old City, but relocated to this site in 1906. We heard the story of the statue, of teaching through various eras, of the tank in the plaza, and we stepped inside the Law School.


And, being librarians, we were most eager to see the library. Upstairs we found the card catalog and students studying, who were kind enough to look up for photos!


In Habana Vieja, we had lunch in a lovely old colonial courtyard, with very non-colonial music by “5 pa’ 8.”


Back in Vedado, we went to the headquarters of the National Cuban Writers and Artists’ Union, UNEAC and met with a few representatives, including the president, the poet Alex Pausides, to hear about their history and their work.


Then we met with Esperanza to hear about The Five, Cubans who are held in jails in the United States, which is viewed as a great injustice by Cubans. There is much to investigate when I return home.


The day was ended with a visit to the suburb of La Lisa, where a CDR: Committee for the Defense of the Revolution met us with a street party! We talked, walked around their ceiba tree and then danced with our new friends. Well, some of the men went to watch the baseball game together! And as I walked to the bus to leave, I was singing Guantanamera with my new friends!

Day Two: Monday, February 16

Driving east from Habana, our bus hugged the coastline, passing oil wells, both Cuban and Canadian-Cuban joint ventures. We had a break at the overlook for the Bacunayagua bridge, the highest bridge (360 ft.) in Cuba. The Valle de Yumurí is lovely, with tall palm trees and the overlook is typical of those that accommodate tourists. We were headed to Matanzas, a provincial capital and a historical cultural center in the 19th century, due to the wealth of the sugar exports.


On the Plaza de la Vigía, by the San Juan River and under the shelter of an arcade, we found the Ediciones Vigía, where handcrafted books bring the book closer to the people, where people listen to “the breathing of the book.” Editions of 250 copies of poems, essays, reviews and stories are made by hand with inexpensive paper and natural materials.

Another highlight of Matanzas was visiting an elementary school, the Palacio Pionero. Small classes of children were diligently chanting their lessons and the group in the biblioteca recited for us! No photographs allowed, but the sounds of their voices left their imprint. Matanzas was the home of the Cuban poet Bonifacio Byrne and I guess only a busload of librarians would listen to his poem “Mi Bandera” recited as we rode along. He wrote it when he returned to Cuba after the 1898 War of Independence and was shocked to see the U.S. flag flying alongside the Cuban one:

“Do you not see it? My flag is that one / that has never been mercenary / and on which a star shines brighter, / the more solitary it is.”


Further east, out on the peninsula, we found the Varadero beach and had a lovely lunch at the Albacora. There was time for a swim before heading back to Habana. This long stretch of white sand was once the property of the rich (think DuPont), but is now developed by hotel chains.


After dinner we headed over to the fortress San Carlos de La Cabaña for the Cañonazo. At 9:00 PM exactly, the cannon is fired to tell people that the city gates are closed and the bay is blocked by a chain. Well, that’s the way it was in the 18th century and it is still done today. The colonial uniforms and drums are all very reminiscent of Williamsburg, but it’s all commanded in Spanish!

Day One: Sunday, February 15

I’ve made it! I am here! A taxi ride from the José Martí Airport to the Habana Libre Hotel and I am well and truly in Cuba. I do still have a room and walking into the room I lose my breath at the view. This view will enchant me at all times of the day and night and I have many photos of it!

Somehow, Tatiana knows I am here now and calls to tell me the meeting time for tomorrow. I have lost the day with the group, but there is time for a walk down La Rampa to the Malecón. Very Habana, and I am grateful not to worry about planes tomorrow! Near the hotel is a nice reminder that my visit is during the 50th Anniversary of the Revolution.

Saturday, February 14

Another plane delay and another missed connection. Thanks to “Rodney” I have an ocean view room and a lovely evening and morning walk/swim on the beach. Will I ever make it to Cuba?

Friday, February 13

Okay, so maybe leaving on Friday the 13th was not the best plan. I only made it to Dallas, due to a late takeoff from Richmond, Virginia. American Airlines had to put me up in Dallas for the night, but at least I was at home under the wonderful Texas sky.

Six Days in Habana

With a nod to James Michener, who wouldn’t write about Cuba until he had been there.

This was a trip imagined alone, but fulfilled with the help of librarians and friends from the United States and Canada, under the graceful guidance of Tatiana Rodriguez.