On the site of the former Camp Columbia, built by Americans after 1898 and used as a base camp by Batista, the Ciudad Libertad in Marianao is now a school complex, following Castro’s policy of turning barracks into schools (as in Matanzas). There we found the Museo de la Alfabetización which celebrates the Literacy Campaign of 1961.
In his 4 hour and 20 minute speech at the United Nations on September 26, 1960, Castro outlined his plan to send out brigades of children and others to every corner of the island to wipe out illiteracy. January 1, 1961, the illiteracy rate was 23.6% and by December it was 3.9%. (Today it is .2%)
The most charming collections in the museum are the letters written to Fidel as the final test of the newly literate. The lantern is the symbol of those who went to rural areas to teach.
After a drive back through Playa and Miramar, we found another artist in residence, Alicia Leal, and once again we enjoyed both the art and the artist’s house. This house was followed by a visit to another house: Finca La Vigía in San Francisco de Paula, the home of Ernest Hemingway. Caught in amber at his death, the house and its contents are witnesses to a beautiful location and a fascinating hunting, fishing, drinking and, yes, writing life.
Back in Habana, I walked past the Hotel Nacional and the Maine monument to the plaza which was constructed in front of the U.S. Interests Section building for the demonstrations to return Elián González to his father in Cuba. A wonderfully anachronistic statue of Martí holds Elián and points accusingly down the concrete plaza towards the nameless, grey building.
The plaza opposite the building, the Plaza Tribuna Anti-Imperialista.
Back at the Hotel Nacional that evening for music and dancing from the Habana All Stars! And yes, a Cuba Libre was involved.
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